Geopolitical Relations and Tourism Geography
WEI Lei, LIU Xiaoping, ZHU Hong, YANG Rong
Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH), stemming from the social practices of communities, groups, or individuals, is intrinsically linked to specific locales. The dynamic interplay of globalization and localization has significantly expanded the material, conceptual, and symbolic dimensions of ICH, pushing its boundaries beyond their origins. The study explores the dyeing and finishing techniques of Gambiered Canton Gauze (Xiangyunsha) in the Pearl River Delta, examining both the tangible products and their representation within three apparel companies. By analyzing data from diverse sources, this study uncovers how brands' positions within translocal networks establish norms and scaling strategies, forging multiple ICH narratives. Each of the three brands incorporates Xiangyunsha into its design. The first, a local enterprise, demarcates an exclusive domain of heritage. Through its localization strategy, the brand's owner aligns her local identity with this heritage domain, claiming right to interpret and steward its authenticity, leveraging local elements such as history, climate, resources, and culture as a competitive advantage in marketing. The second enterprise employs a multiple localization strategy, engaging with local, regional, and global assets to advance brand development. Though not a native brand, it has established significant partnerships with local authorities to safeguard heritage, positioning it as a global eco-conscious fashion icon and achieving scale-jumping. The third brand, founded by a Western designer with international experience and an ecletic artistic sensibility, along with her Chinese husband, follows a hybrid localization strategy. Operating from China's capital, rather than the heartland of Xiangyunsha production, the brand weaves ICH practices into the global cultural fabric. This approach results in a mosaic that mirrors current cosmopolitan values, enriched by an ongoing influx of innovative ideas, discourse, and knowledge. This study discerns that scales within ICH practices are interconnected, presenting a non-hierarchical relationship. It posits that the sense of locality and place in ICH is fluid and contextual, shaped by a web of connections forged through ICH practice.